The Return of the Doha Darlings - with mates!

The Return of the Doha Darlings ............... with Dudes.
Cognition Christmas celebations.
Doha

The Return of the Doha Darlings - Abba Revivalists!!

The Return of the Doha Darlings part 2

National Day Celebrations at Ahmed bin Hanbal School

National Day at School how to celebrate in style

Check out the celebrations on: http://www.ndqatar.com/english/index.php
http://www.ndqatar.net
http://www.youtube.com/user/NDQATAR

OMAN & National Day

OMAN.

Driving into Oman was a pleasant change after driving on the flat of Qatar as we wound our was through the mountains down to the coast. Apart from the lack of snow on the mountains we could have been driving down through the Desert Road towards Wellington at the height of summer.

We stopped at Al Khaburah partly because we saw a signpost pointing to a Fort which looked interesting and the prospect of lunch in the township was high on the agenda. The Fort was a 19th century mud-brick one that is, as we came to appreciate, a common feature of Oman overlooking the seafront with line of sight to forts along the coast. I left Joy in the car and walked around the fort to take photographs when I was called over by an Omani family who were standing outside their beachfront home talking. They invited Joy & me to join them for lunch. Apparently this invitation is a basic tenent of Ibadism, the Omani sect of Islam.

I initially deferred but they insisted so I got Joy and returned to meet them. Joy was ushered into the house where she was introduced to the women of the family, including the blind 107 year old Great-great grandmother who, our host’s son said, had told them all about Hitler and W.W.II.

I was entertained in the entrance room until our host returned with a plastic cloth which he laid on the floor along with a coffee pot and cups. Soon after bowls of food arrived - rice, baked goat, foul, onions and fruit and the invitation to eat. Our hosts supplied two plates saying the Joy would be eating with me and, after I was introduced to his wife,mother and the sons, Joy was ushered into the room and encouraged to eat.

Our hosts left us as other family members arrived from Muscat and were to be welcomed in other parts of the household. Joy & I finished eating and took our leave to resume our drive to Muscat another two hours down the road.

Arriving in Muscat we drove past the Grand Mosque the Sultan had built and donated to the people of Oman.The mosque is a huge complex that can host over 20,000 worshippers and which has the largest chandelier in the world - 8 tonnes of crystal and light - we booked into Naseem’s Hotel on the waterfront at Mutrah - the old commercial centre of Muscat. The area was a bustle of activity with the souq, cruise ships and the Al-Lawatiyah mosque all close at hand. The area is picturesque with the Mutrah Fort perched high above the town on a hilltop that jutted into the park below giving a strategic coverage of the port entrance and offering protection to the township.

We prowled the souq that evening looking for bargains and watching the stall holders persuading the passing tourists to buy Omani caps, perfumes, carvings from India, local handicrafts and other nic-nacs in the time-honoured way we have gotten used to here in Doha.

The next day we walked along the corniche watching the locals fishing for the colourful fish that darted amongst the rocks of the area. We gazed up at the fort and the huge incense burner that sits on another headland opposite the fort as we walked to Riyam park. From there we ambled back to the souq,had another pry around the place before driving around the headland to old Muscat where the Sultan has his palace nestled between the two forts - Al Jazirah and AlJalali -that guard the town. We had planned on visiting the museums in the area but found them closed for Eid - inshalla!.

From there we drove along the coast, past small villages huddling in hill sheltered coves, to Al Bustan, a fishing village and the site of the Al Bustan Palace Intercontinental Hotel and the offices of the Governate of Muscat.

That night we were treated to the sight of a woman totally shrouded in her abaya selling products on a TV channel while a gecko crawled its way up the wall of our hotel room.


The next day we drove inland back to UAE. The road twisted through the mountains and desert until we turned off to the old capital of Oman, the silversmithing town of Nizwa. This proved to be a fascinating place with a goat market, silversmithing souq, pottery and handicrafts souq all huddling around the walls of the Nizwa fort and mosque.

We prowled around the stalls for a good two hours and explored the fort which had a very informative museum inside that gave us a great insight into the history of the area and the different industries that had evolved over the centuries in the township.

Leaving the town around 3.00pm we drove on through the wind eroded, twisted rocks of the interior toward the border. As we got higher into the mountains the wind became more obvious and, at times, forcing us to slow to a crawl and, at one point, stop, as the sand swirled up out of the desert and across the road obscuring the road and traffic from sight for minutes at a time.

We crossed the border and headed back to Al Ain for the evening. The next day we dropped in on Bruce and Louise Devene before heading onto Abu Dhabi for the day prior to flying back to Doha the next afternoon.

On arrival in Abu Dhabi we discovered that it was UAE National Day celebrations which meant that the streets were filled with SUVs covered in transfers of the Emirs, red, green and black hearts and slogans declaring the owner’s love and pride of being an Emirati while the skies were filled with a huge flag hauled by a giant helicopter and the corniche was awash with people draped in UAE flags, coloured clothes and caps as they walked to the accompaniment of the sound of numerous SUV horns blurting support for the UAE.

A far far different atmosphere to that which we are used to back home when Waitangi Day becomes a dark and somewhat depressing exercise in protestation rather an a celebration of nationhood and identity.

Back in Doha the State too is gearing up for its celebration of Nationhood on the 18th of December.

National Day Poster on bridge in Al Ain

It is hard to believe that it is a month since our last posting but according to the up date note on blogger it has been.

Since the last blog we’ve been busy with deadlines, deliverables and drifts of drafts of paperwork that all needed to be completed before the Eid break. For some reason there seems to be more to complete than ever.... maybe it’s a result of having an enthusiastic staff combined with the start-up quality of the school which means that the needs are more obvious. Any way the days seem to disappear in a haze of business so the gap between blogs has grown.

Before Eid we hosted Dave & Shirley Parry for eight days as they passed through Doha on their way back to NZ after their six month contract here and an extended sojourn in the UK visiting family.
While they were with us we took the opportunity to visit the exhibition of Islam the Fanar Centre for information on Islam was running at the Doha Exhibition Centre. This was an informative exhibition that showed us the history and development of Islam across the generations and provided us with insights into the cultural practises that Islam brings to the Arab States.

The overall message from the exhibition was that,as with the basic tenents of Christianity, the underlying drive of Islam is one of peaceful co-existence and of acceptance of others' beliefs and practises which explained many of the comments and offers of generousity Joy and I have experienced here in Qatar.

My name in Arabic.

As well as playing host Joy & I were invited to visit the home of one of the Qatari staff in Al Wakra. This was an interesting experience for us as this was our first opportunity to experience Qatari hospitality. We took a box of chocolates as a visit to a home here should, apparently, be with a gift and were ushered into the entrance room where we shared coffee until Joy was ushered into the house to meet our host’s wife, daughters and young sons.

I sat in the entry room talking to our host’s eldest son who was preparing himself for his first Haj to Mecca and contemplating his upcoming marriage. On our host’s return, from introducing Joy to his wife, he and I drove off to meet his brothers and other family members at the family majilis where we sat and discussed politics, the differences between Qatar and N.Z - geographically and socially and attempted to settle all the world’s problems in a combination of English, translations and signing along with inspired guessing of intention until the evening meal was served in the next door room.

There the food, several chickens and lamb slices, was served on a huge tray heaped with rice and sliced vegetables on the floor with all the men who had gathered in the majilis seated around it.

We then went back to our host’s home to pick up Joy who emerged from inside the house clutching a bag which her hostess insisted contained only chocolates (needless to say it contained a lot more than that- much to our confusion) and a box containing marigold plants and small tree. These we now have growing in a couple of pots in our apartment.

The Eid break came at the end of November and allowed us to fly to Abu Dhabi to catch up with Peter Rocha, ex Otahuhu College, who is now working for Cognition in Al Ain and several of our friends from Doha who are now on contracts in the UAE.

Peter Rocha & Alison Bowden in Al Ain

We hired a car and drove the 160 kms to Al Ain and then got confused trying to find Peter’s apartment block ending up driving around the city centre several times until we stumbled on the Hilton Hotel landmark Peter had given more by shear luck than good management.

Al Ain is a pleasant oasis city to the north of Abu Dhabi.The area has been the cultivated for several hundred years and, according to the tourist pamphlets, is the site of over 147,000 date palms with mango, orange,banana, fig and jujube trees scattered among them. It certainly made a change for us to go for a walk among the trees instead of the dust of the city streets we experience in Doha.

We took the opportunity to explore the city and toured the Sheikh Zayed Palace museum - a complex that preserves the atmosphere of the royal residence the museum once was. The whole complex is a series of courts with different majilis where the Sheikh could entertain visiting dignitaries in a mix of traditional and western styles, depending on the nationality of the guest. Within each courtyard there was a room set up for continuous brewing of coffee and supply of dates and food so that no guest would ever go hungry while staying in the palace.

Joy was fascinated by the portraits of the royal family that were on display in the entry passage ways. The portraits were brilliantly executed by a Lebanese portraitist and could have kept Joy fascinated for hours.

Joy & me in the Sheikh Zayed Palace coffee room- Al Ain

We were given an introductory tour by two very fluent English speaking guides who used the opportunity to practice their English on us as they described the Al Nahyan family and its influence on the UAE.

From the palace we drove to the Hili Archeological Park where evidence of Bronze age settlement in the area was being unearthed. The 3rd millennium BC remains of tombs, water channels and houses indicate that at one time the area was a lot more hospitable than the present arid land would offer.

The 4000 year old Grand Tomb was an impressive monument to the dead which once stood 12 meters in diameter and over 4 metres high in the centre of the complex. It had several rooms with a well in its centre and was designed to house over 800 bodies which would have accumulated over several hundred years according to the archeologists exploring the site.

The village itself must have once been a fairly large and important centre for the Bronze & Iron Age tribes that lived in the area if the number of tombs and clay brick huts are any indication of settlement.

On top of Jebel Hafit Mountain - Al Ain

From there we drove the 7.3 miles up Jebel Hafit mountain to its summit where Peter and I enjoyed the view of the city and its surrounding plain amid the chaos of Eid holidaying locals who had driven to the top to celebrate Eid and the upcoming UAE’s national day. The drive up what is described as one of the world’s best driving roads was a test of patience and driving skill as we wound our was up in the midst of a 2-3 km continuous traffic jam of walking Afghanis (in the UAE as labourers ), mini-buses, SUVs with passengers waving through the sun roof and utes with trays packed with local Indian labourers singing and shouting greetings to the cars climbing slowly to the top car park as they began the descent to the lights of the city.Jebel Hafit traffic jam.

On the Sunday we left the apartment for a walk through the oasis and discovered that the day of the Eid sacrifice had arrived and the street had become a line of sacrificial slaughterhouses as nearly every house had a lamb or goat being gutted, skinned and prepared for the division into thirds according to Islamic tradition. A little further into our walk and we heard the drawn out bleat of a goat and came across a family grouped around a leg roped animal while two expert slaughter-men prepared to cut its throat and bleed it according to halal ritual.

Eid sacrifice - Al Ain

Later, as we walked through the oasis we came upon three men busy washing and rubbing curry into the flesh of their sacrificed animal in the water course or falajas that run through the area. They had the carcass divided into thirds and placed in large bowls so the distribution of the pieces of meat could be easily made and were busy washing out the heads of the animals they had sacrificed readying them for the evening barbeque they would share in.

We planned to drive into Oman and spend several days exploring the neighbouring Sultanate only to discover that we needed permission to take our car out of the UAE as well as buying special Oman car insurance to cover us for the days we would be in the state. This delayed our drive until the Car Rental agency opened its doors for post Eid customers.

Once we had the necessary permissions we headed across the border through the UAE border control posts, across the no mans land between the posts and, after showing the required permits, through the Omani post and into the mountains of Oman.

Films, DVDs, Family and paintings

Forgive me if this blog is a little maudlin but there are times when one heads of in that direction.

Doha life has been busy for us both since our last blog. As I said we took in the Doha Tribeca Film Festival - at least two of the films - Bright Star (Jane Campion) and Harry Brown, starring Michael Caine in his "last"movie.
The latter was one of the toughest films Joy and I have seen for a long time. It was one of the blackest pieces of social commentary to come out of the UK for years, a cross between Ken Loach (of the Cathy Come Home genre) and Don Seigel's Dirty Harry which left us despairing of the present self centred, selfish society that we seem to have allowed to develop and which, in its end, will spawn the vigilante who, desperate and wrathful, acts as the purgative that society seeks to recreate order and decency.

Even though the film ended with a high - the aged vigilante surveying a peaceful and clean housing estate - the over whelming sense of depression and hopelessness of the scenes left us feeling uncomfortable for our support of Michael Caine's Harry Brown in his battle to purge the community of the corruption that was destroying people's lives.

Some days later I was sitting at the traffic lights,giving all those drivers who needed to turn across my lane time to avoid an accident, when I found myself thinking of Dad and the pleasure we had in our Friday phone calls and the many jokes and stories we had shared over 6o years and the tears came making it even harder, than the traffic allowed, to drive across the intersection and head for home. Then, a week later, the DVD of the funeral arrived so Joy and I played it through to end up comforting each other as we watched the send off we gave Dad. The laughter that farewelled the Old Man was an endorsement of the life he lived and the pleasure he'd shared with others.

It was a reminder that we should and can get on with living and enjoy fun and laughter with an item we're rehearsing for the Cognition Christmas Dinner scheduled for the 17th of December.

Joy has created and hand-sewn the costumes and choreographed the item which we're rehearsing two times a week in our apartment. A tight fit for six of us!! All I can say is that if the hall doesn't collapse in laughter then our collective sense of humour will have disappeared.

Joy has also found an outlet for her Doha paintings in a dusty handmade furniture, handicraft and carpets antique shop,The Green Door, in a street just off Al Jazira. The shop is owned by a friendly Jordanian, Ghassan who agreed to exhibit her paintings to the tourists and businesses that deal there. While she was negotiating the commission and procedures a tall Qatari came into the room. Ghassan introduced us,although, I learned later,Joy missed the name until I asked her if she had realised that the man she'd been talking to was Sheik Abdulla Al-Thani, a member of the ruling family of Qatar.

Sheik Abdulla is a local artist in his own right as well as having an interest in the Green Door as he appeared to go on Ghassan's buying expeditions to India. Anyway, he liked Joy's work, which was great, and suggested some other places and things she could look to painting in the future.

Later in the week we hosted one of the Qatari teachers who wanted to practice his conversational English with us. He stayed for a couple of hours chatting about politics - national and international - families and travel before he went to pick his wife up from a workshop at one of the local hotels. We are now looking forward to going to Al Wakra to meet him and his family. This will no doubt be the focus of our next blog.

On the work scene we are busier than ever with reports and paperwork to be completed in what seems to be ever tighter time-frames. It certainly makes the experience worthwhile and professionally rewarding. Our work has been reported on in the local papers with the publication of a complimentary report from the RAND group who have reviewed the effectiveness of the SSO teams and the reforms and found that our work has made significant impact on Qatari education so I feel that my decision to take up the contract with Cognition has been vindicated.

On Monday night we had the choice of The Doha Debates or a Literary Evening. We chose the Literary Evening and went to the Doha Writers Group literary reading to hear a British Muslim writer, Shelina Zahara Janmohamed, read and discuss her novel - "Love in a Headscarf - a Muslim woman seeks the One." An amusing evening as she regaled us with stories of buxom aunties, mosque Inmans, romantic comedies, arranged marriages and being British. A rewarding evening with Joy taking home a novel that she is enjoying.

We are now hosting Dave and Shirley Parry on their return trip to NZ after their contract in Doha and holiday in the UK . Dave is keen to see the friendly match between England and Brazil here in Doha this weekend and to catch the sun and sights before heading back to the Pacific.

With the Eid break (26 Nov -6 Dec) we're heading over to Abu Dhabi to catch up with Peter Rocha, ex Otahuhu, and perhaps head over to Oman to catch a glimpse of different Gulf States and climates. That will, no doubt, be the centre of our next blog.

Catching Up

October has proven to be a busy month for us in Doha so keeping the blog as regularly as we've done to date has been difficult.

Steve O'Neill - Joy's portrait

Joy has been busy with her preparations for the return of The Doha Darlings and painting a portrait of Steve O'Neill, our "Mr. Organisation" for Cognition while I've had my head down keeping up with the demands of the job at school.

Raymond auctioning Joy's painting

Joy was pleased to find, on the web, a picture of Raymond Huo auctioning one of her paintings at a Chinese community fundraiser for victims of the Samoan tsunami recently. It was good to see her work being used to support a good cause.

Our new school is a MoE one that has been designated an Independent School this year. For this year we're based in the old school site rather than in a new design school building which makes for a more interesting place to work especially as the rooms sprawl over the site rather being concentrated inside a block as we had at MBAW last year.

The staff are all concerned with making the school "the best Independent school in Doha" and, as a consequence, are determined to come to grips with the demands of the Curriculum Standards and reforms as soon as possible. This means that I'm constantly engaged in purposeful discussions and workshops on aspects of implementation and planning most days of the week. It certainly makes for enjoyable and positive work.

Marty delivering PD at ABHSS

Keeping up with the consequent paperwork then consumes a couple of hours each night which means that Joy & I try to cram things into the weekend.

We're off to the Doha Tribeca Film Festival to see Jane Campion's film -Bright Star tonight and then check out the programme to try a fit in another film on Saturday. The idea of leaving a film at 2.00am then heading to work on Sunday at 6.00am doesn't appeal so it will have to be a judicious choice for Saturday night.

Bright Star was Jane Campion back in her favourite period - the 19th century - and her favourite theme - Woman trapped in a situation that doesn't allow her to realise the fullness of her passion. The film was beautifully made, with a meticulous eye for detail throughout, and, in the exploration of the relationship between Keats and Fanny, a slow, relentless revelation of the frustrations, fascinations and passions that the two lovers, trapped in a society that conspired to keep them apart, experienced.

We couldn't help but think that there was a thematic unity that reached back to the rain soaked bush and mud caked film The Piano in Bright Star. The film did keep us fascinated and focused on the couple's doomed relationship.

With luck Joy and I might try to grab another film this Saturday afternoon.

The Final Goodbyes

It is strange not to do our usual weekend phone call to Dad in Wanganui to swap reminiscences and talk about our activities here in Doha and his back home in New Zealand.

Dad's War time love cartoon - a symbol of his humour.

We are still adjusting to a life without Dad’s bluff good humour and cheery “Good day son”when he picked up the phone.

Following Des’s phone call in the early hours of Sunday morning (Doha time) Joy & I moved from our usual work day mode to fast forward and long flights back home to farewell Dad.

Dad’s death was recorded in both local papers ( http://rcp.wanganui.info/sept17/RCPA17sep09A02.pdf. ) with an obituary recording his involvement in the city.
The funeral was, as the neighbours kept telling us it would be, big with 500 people from all sides of the family, from the organisations Dad had been involved with, from the neighbourhood and the wider community there to pay their last respects to a generous friend and neighbour.

Dad had, in his usual manner, scripted everything so that there was little for us to do but follow his instructions with subtle tweaks to allow for those who wanted to speak a chance to say their farewells.

Keren, Linda & Letitia swap Frank stories at his wake.

The wake that evening was tinged with sadness but over laid with the laughter he had instructed everyone to remember him by and went until the early hours of the morning as many a yarn was spun about Dad’s exploits from Waipukurau, to Stratford, through the war, up the River and throughout our lives.

The tribe - Grandchildren and Great Grand children ready to depart after farewelling their Poppa

Des, Jocelyn and I sorted out the estate over the following week before Jocelyn and Caroline drove Dad’s car to Christchurch and Joy and I prepared for the long flight back to Doha.

Before we left Doha was celebrating Ramadan which saw the Malls decorating their atriums with reminders of the cultural heritage behind the 40 days of fasting and meditation on the teachings of Mohammed as this presentation at the City Centre Mall shows. It certainly beats the tired elves and coca-cola created Father Xmas features we are accustomed to at home.

Ramadan presentation in the City Centre Mall - Doha

We returned to the Eid celebrations that mark the end of Ramadan.
We got back early Friday morning, with an upgrade to business class on the Dubai-Doha leg, and crashed out until early evening. Saturday saw us sorting out our fridge which had decided to cut out during our absence thus leaving us with a load of food to dispose of. Fortunately we could use a colleague’s fridge until the management provided us with a new working one.

The view from the roof of our apartment block

We are now back into working mode. Joy starting on a new painting and me at school providing professional development and advice to the English teachers and librarian - the Arabic Department will come this week once we see the students at school.

The week, since our return from New Zealand, has disappeared incredibly quickly. Probably because the demands of the job have consumed a good deal of the time! The staff at Ahmed bin Hanbal School are enthusiastic and responsive to the proposals and demands of the curriculum reforms they have to embrace following their move from a MoE school to an Independent one which makes our job both easier and more demanding as the ideas and techniques we present and model are taken up positively, rapidly and used in a constructive manner in their programme and lesson planning.

Outside of work Joy and I have been entertaining some of our colleagues as well as going to a Thai Cultural presentation at the Hyatt Doha which was very entertaining with its mix of dance and martial arts as well as visiting the Souqs in search of the new and different as we adjust to a very different family structure and filling the hole Dad left.

In Memorium- Frank Henry Papprill: 25 July 1922 - 12 September 2009

Frank Papprill

What can one say about Dad? What words best describe him?
Whatever we do we could never find enough to say about him or words to describe him.

For us he was always that big generous, loving, humorous, passionate, warm-hearted, big-hearted even, down to earth, involved, unassuming, surprising, concerned, neighbourly, a teller of stories, a raconteur, a lover of the bawdy as well as one of great tenderness.

Dad loved life as well as loving intensely with a devotion I can only hope I can emulate. For when Mum was diagnosed with cancer he saw it as his duty to look after her, to nurse her through her long illness and then, despite our shared joke that with all his lawn-mowing, gardening and shared meals he did with his friends on The Hill he was serving twelve widows, to remain loyal to his love right through until his death.

My Dad, our Dad, our children’s grandfather, their children’s great grandfather, was a man who continued to surprise us and will continue to be a role model we and they can look and live up to.

For he was a man whose bluff good humour would become the focus of a party - at my 60th his often embarrassing tales of my childhood, here in Wanganui, created much amusement for my friends who, every time we met, would ask “How’s the old man? Still telling stories?”

His intense pleasure of life and all it gave him was shared equally between us, as family, and his neighbours. I learnt, only recently, of his early morning gardening done for an army friend, an ex POW, whose ill-health prevented him from getting his garden into shape - who else but an overly generous man would get up in the pre dawn mist and go and dig a neighbour’s garden over before going to work?

But, then again, nothing should have surprised us for I recall Jocelyn ringing me one weekend, full of concern, when she discovered that Dad, when he was a regular hut warden for DOC, had met a young English couple honeymooning on the river and,after talking to them, had not only given the couple his jersey because theirs was wet but offered them the keys to the house to stay over in Wanganui while he was up the river. His generosity actually did include giving the shirt off his back!

Jocelyn, Des, Alan & Frank. 25 July 2009

Dad was also a man who enjoyed life and all the humour it held. For him living was a divine comedy. At our last family gathering, his 87th birthday, the evening ended with us falling out of our chairs with stomach aching laughter as he told and then encouraged others to tell story after embarrassingly funny story about himself, ourselves and his childhood. Each story often tinged with poignancy even as the punch lines threw themselves at our solar plexus and doubled us up with laughter.

It was an evening of great good humour that only finished when the final whiskey was drunk and Dad had decided that he’d had enough and said his good nights.

Heather, Joy, Frank, Jocelyn 25 July 2009

That enjoyment of life, his unquestioning generousity gave him rewards that he was astonished, surprised and humbled at receiving. The QSM for his services to the community that is Durie Hill, to the community that is the Wanganui River, the organisations and people along it and to his War time mates left him tongue-tied and speechless and, I think, awed by the honour given to him so freely.

And when, just a few months ago, the RSA awarded him a life membership for his care, his ongoing friendship to his mates, his comment to us was: “Christ, son, they called me up and gave me a life membership.I don’t know why they gave it to me. I was only doing what I normally do.... and ... bugger me if I didn’t start to cry ... stupid old fool eh?”

But that was Dad. He did what he always had done and carried on doing it because it was the right thing, the only thing, to do.

For a man that lived life to the fullest I know Dad was always perpetually surprised that he had survived to reach 87 and to see his family hit those magic numbers of 63, 61 and 50 themselves. He once said to me: “You know son, I told your mother when I reached 40 that I didn’t think I’d see them reach 40... least of all see Jocelyn reach that age.And now, look at us - you’ve passed 60 and Jocelyn’s going on 50 - where did the years go?”

To which I said -”Keep asking Dad ‘cos we expect you to be still here at 90.”

Unfortunately that won’t happen.

Yes, Dad was a great father, a welcoming and loving father in law, a great grandfather and great great-grandfather who has had a huge influence on our lives and on the lives of our families.

He has been great neighbour to many - an established figure on Durie Hill as, after all, you don’t live in one house on one street for 66 years without becoming part of the fabric of the suburb.

He has been a great friend not just to us as his family but to all he came in contact with.

His death will leave a huge hole in our lives but his memory will survive, his stories will be retold, relived and embroidered on for many years and his presence always felt whenever someone begins a sentence with: “Remember when Poppa said or did...”

So let us all remember Frank, remember Dad, Remember Poppa and celebrate his life and mourn his passing.

Back in the Doha Haze

Our Apartment in Bin Mahmoud

It is hard to believe that we've been back in Doha for two weeks now as the days seem to have merged into the heat haze that is Qatar in summer. With temperatures regularly in the mid 40s during the day and lows of 30C the idea of doing anything really active during the day disappears as one contemplates the comfort of air conditioning in the cocoon that is our apartment.

On top of the heat induced lassitude it is also Ramadan here which means that the day starts with the dawn call to prayer at 4.00 followed by the sunrise call at 5.15. For the locals it means that there can be no eating or drinking after 5.00am until the sunset call at 5.45pm.

It also means that the working day becomes compressed into a 4-5 hour slot between 8.00 or 9.00am and 1.00pm. (For the workers on the building site behind our apartment the day starts with the shriek of an un-oiled pulley at 5.30 and finishes at around 10.30 or 11.00am when the heat is too much for any outside labour.)

There are several advantages to this situation: getting on with some reading both for recreation and professionally, polishing up PD presentations for delivery once schools start, writing up exemplar lesson plans to take into the schools for teachers to follow and for us, as ATs, to demonstrate as effective teaching to the staff, watching the news on TV, having organisation meetings with the ATs with both companies involved with the contract and socialising with our colleagues.

It does mean that we are getting ourselves well organised for the coming school year.

I've been on site at the school the team I'm on is working in for the past three days meeting the staff, sorting out our work space and getting ourselves ready to swing into action this Sunday when we meet the full staff for the first time.
This year the school is an ex-Ministry one that has become an Independent school. The plan is to operate out of the old site for 2009-10 then move to a new site in 2010-11. In the meantime the old rooms are being given a make over with new plant installed ready for the students by the 27th. Consequently the parking area looks like a building site with stacks of student desks, old filing cabinets, broken blackboards, chairs, papers, bottles and hunks of timber and broken masonry on one side and an army of labourers busy painting, reassembling and moving new materials into the classrooms while teachers hunt their way through the movement to find a space to work or talk about the new year in their departments.

It also means that the English Coordinator and I have to sit down and sort out the resources needed to ensure that the Department can deliver both in quantity and quality as there appear to be no text or consumerable resources left from the old MoE school for the staff to use to develop lessons from.

We are, however, impressed by the energy and organisation of the Management team who have been coordinating the changeover for some weeks now. Every discussion we've had with them has shown that they have a solid and well thought-out knowledge of the challenges and requirements of the change from a MoE to an Independent SEC school will mean for the staff and the students. It should also mean that come the 27th the school will be ready to spring into operation.

On the home front Joy and I have settled into our apartment and, following a long exchange of misdirection and misunderstandings, unpacked our final boxes of gear to make the place more homely. Joy has hung her canvases of NZ scenes on the walls in the lounge and lined the walls of the spare bedroom with blank canvases and her paints as a studio and I've set up an alcove in the lounge as a workspace and library. I also picked up a cheap DVD player so we can now enjoy films whenever we want rather than surf our way through the 1050 channels available on the satellite TV to find a programme worth sustained watching.

Joy and Priscilla, as the current surviving "Doha Darlings", are busy plotting and planning their next foray into musical theatre which means they are off most mornings to explore the air conditioned halls of the souqs on the look out for material and items they can put to use. They are waiting on the return of Jan to complete their trio and the "Darlings" will spring into action.

Joy with one of her paintings at the Souq Waqif

Joy and I drove down to the Souq Waqif one evening to check out the "Summer in the City" exhibition Joy had had two paintings exhibited in over the July-September period and were impressed at the range of work and styles the local artists are working in. I think it would be great if Joy could, with other Kiwi artists here in Doha, do a totally NZ art exhibition at sometime. The contrast between the intense colours of the Pacific and the haziness of the Gulf would be interesting to say the least.

On Wednesday we were the guests of the Bloomsbury-Qatar Foundation Publishing House for Iftar, the post fast meal, and a poetry reading by four local poets. The poets read their work in both Arabic and English to a very receptive audience after the meal. The poems revealed the differences in attitude, thought and imagery between male and female in the Middle East as well as the linguistic accomplishment of the poets.

The male poet's work resounded with discords and clashes of images while the women's work focused on the issue or the meaningful moment with intensity and controlled passion which left the audience in earnest discussion after the reading.

This coming week will be interesting especially as I,with my colleagues, will be beginning our work proper and as Ramadan nears its end. Joy and I are also trying to work out what we will do over the Eid break that follows Ramadan - there is a public holiday from the 17th through till the 27th - so we are looking at a trip to Turkey, which would allow us to visit places we didn't get to see when we first went there in 1997, or to Abu Dhabi where we could catch up some of our colleagues from last year as well as drive to Oman and as explore another Gulf State.

Choices!!

The Return to Doha.

Assured of a contract for the 2009-10 Joy and I settled ourselves into organising our lives for a full year in the Gulf States.

This meant setting ourselves up to become landlords, clearing our house out to place everything in storage during our absence and ensuring that our estate was to be well managed. This was a task and a half as we moved, packed and sorted out all we had accumulated over the past 11 years in Franco Lane.

While we concentrated on this task the contract negotiations meandered their way through the hallways of the various Government departments in Qatar towards final signatures. This took time and left many of the team in the twilight world of waiting, waiting, waiting for the call to return to the Gulf.

During this hiatus Joy and I, along with the rest of the family, celebrated my father’s 87th birthday in Wanganui. We flew south from Auckland on a typically windy,wet N.Z. winter morning in a small commuter plane which was uniquely suited for flying through up and down draughts. Thanking our lucky stars we weren’t flying Yemini Air and the wings remained on the plane we watched our, thankfully empty, coffee cups fly into the air to bounce onto the heads of those in front as at one stage we dropped several hundred feet to bounce back up through the clouds to resume level flight.

Dad’s birthday celebrations went off well despite Dad having been to New Plymouth to his Brother-in-Law’s funeral on the Friday. As Dad said at his age farewells are more common than celebrations.

Back home Joy and I cranked up the house cleaning and packing in the expectation of the flight back to the Gulf.

At the beginning of August we were all ready, the house rented out for the year, the storage unit booked, the removal men coming in and the tickets in our hands for a flight out on the 19th.

Then, a glitch, a pause, a hiatus, a spanner in the works for some one in Qatar had suddenly decided that it would do our souls good to wait a little longer with a question about several consultants’ ages. At 55+ a small group of us, inn the different consulting teams, suddenly became too old to perform the tasks we’d been competently performing four weeks before and so we were put into the holding pattern while representations were made on our behalves to the Qatari bodies responsible for the contract we were employed under.

This snafu meant that we had to review our options and begin looking to plans B through to Z in case our personal contract could not be fulfilled. Our plans all took us to the UK where, with an EU passport, I could secure work for the 2009-10 academic year as a supply teacher and, if Joy wanted, she, too, can work. So now I registered with half a dozen recruitment agencies and sent my CV to a couple of colleges enquiring about possible job vacancies.

My qualifications and character were being checked out to ensure I was of sufficient good character to minister to the tender psyches where ever I was offered a job.

All that remained was, given that the Gulf contract could not be fulfilled, to make urgent phone calls to relations to beg bed space until Joy and I were in full employment and had secured a flat for ourselves.

On Tuesday (11th) Joy & I went along to Howick College to be properly fare-welled from the staff as I had been merely offered best wishes as I took off on an extended leave in November 2008.

The fare-well speeches were complementary and,as Joy said later, a pleasure to receive. I also ended up with two & half days of cover and the offer of more if we were still around till the end of the month. At least being busy doing something productive kept me from worrying myself into a panic about possibilities that may or may not eventuate.

In the meantime; the management team in Doha continued to make optimistic and pressing representations to allow us to continue through this contract and we practiced deep breathing and patience.

I practiced the deep breathing by doing relief work at Howick and packing all our possessions into the storage unit along the street until, after much deep breathing and other calming techniques, Qatar finally decided that our ages did not weary us and we could continue in our roles as consultants.

This meant that we were finally on our way on the 26th and the associated 28 hours of traveling time once one counted in waiting time for connections and other delays.

Our first encounter with travel delays was at Auckland Airport where the Airport Authority had installed carry on bag weigh people whose job it was was to stop travelers and weigh their hand luggage to ensure it was below 7 kgs. Of course our bags were 3 - 4 kgs over each so it was back to the check in to summon back our suitcases and off load any excess to the lightest case.

After an hour and much argument Joy and I finally succeeded in off loading enough to allow our cargo case to be within limits and our carry on bags to be 7 kg.(as long as we didn’t pack our reading and some miscellaneous items of clothing we couldn’t pack in our main cases, without going over weight, but were needed on arrival in Doha. These we packed into a couple of small hand bags, weighing an extra 2 kgs each, and carried, along with our carry on bags, back to the departure hall where our carry ons were weighed.. they were now 7 kgs each ...and we were allowed through passport control.

Once there we repacked our small hand bags into our carry ons, bringing them back to 9 kgs each, and headed off to our departure lounge and the wait for the off and the 3 hour trip and a 90 minutes transit wait to Sydney.

From Sydney it was a 19 hour flight to Dubai and a 150 minute transit wait until our 45 minute flight to Doha, Ramadaan (22 August - 19th Sept) and 43 C heat.

We were met by Priscilla Ellis and taken to our new apartment at Bin Mahmoud not too far from our familiar area along Al Miqrab Road. This apartment is larger than our Mazda one with the added advantage of neutral furnishings, a land line and a stable internet connection.

Neville Henry, from Mazda, came round and, with his help, we moved the bits and pieces we’d left in 12 to Bin Mahmoud and got in our groceries and supplies. This effort, while not huge in terms of weight and difficulty, was exhausting as the outside air temperature was 43C and, to us, rising.

Anyway, we’re now comfortably established back in Doha and waiting on the arrival of the boxes we freighted up on Tuesday so that Joy can unpack her painting gear, music for the 2009-10 Doha Darlings and I can find any extra teaching materials I’ll need once we start back in the schools sometime next month.

Amman and Home

13 July:
Our decision not to drive to Wadi Rum before heading back to Amman was vindicated when we drove back to Amman from Petra. Saber (saber.alhamad@yahoo.com ) picked us up at 8.30 for the four hour drive back to Amman along the desert highway.
With a stop off for a visit to a souvenir stall and lunch at Tawaheen Al-Hawa (The Windmill) restaurant in central Amman we didn't get back to the hotel till 3.30pm.

Woman making breads for customers at Tawaheen Al-Hawa Restaurant

If we'd done the Wadi Rum side trip we could have added an extra five hours to the day which would have made it somewhat exhausting especially as we had to repack our bags in preparation for the long trip home the next day.
The meal at Tawaheen Al Hawa was beautifully prepared and presented - a generous platter of "starters" - hummous, pickles, salads, olives... followed by a mixed grill of chicken, lamb and beef and topped off with coffee and water-melon which proved the theory that taking a long, lingering lunch is one of the pleasures that needs to be cultivated and practised often!
Back at the hotel we repacked our bags for easier travel - especially as we had picked up a few more souvenirs of our travels than we'd started with. Joy had had great fun bargaining for a silver arabic styled mirror and several other tangible memories of our trip at different stops along our way which meant we needed to ensure that our packing allowed us access to our immediate needs while protecting the articles.
Outside our hotel the street was hosting a wedding which, like the others we'd passed by in our first days in Amman and, later, in Petra, meant a parade of cars as the groom and his family set off to bring the bride back to the ceremony, lots of excited chatter as the guests arrived and prepared for the arrival of the couple and, as the call for prayer echoed over the street, lines of men facing Mecca praying before the wedding celebrations began in earnest. Then, as the wedding neared its end a series of firework displays climaxed the evening.
The next day it was on to Dubai for an overnight before the 15+ hour trip home to N.Z.

Our brief stop-over in Dubai allowed us to take a walk through the Mall of the Emirates - one of the huge shopping malls that provide tourist destinations in the city-state. Here the attraction is the ski-slope which provides the chance for people to go skiing in the middle of a desert! Otherwise the mall was like every other shopping mall one can see and experience anywhere in the world. So, unless one was a shopping mall addict, as far as we were concerned this was a good excuse to enjoy a walk in air-conditioned comfort after sitting in an airplane constraint for much of the day.

The next day we flew on in the Airbus 380 to Auckland and home and the organisation needed to allow us to return to the Gulf sometime in August.

The Welcoming committee

We were welcomed home by a boisterous and enthusiastic scrum of family and grand-children who draped themselves on our legs and arms as we existed the customs hall and entered the winter damp of an Auckland afternoon.

Now begins the setting up and organisation for a new experience in the Gulf later in the year.

Jordan Tripping; Petra, Little Petra to Amman

12th July:
We decided, too,to abort the side trip to Wadi Rum on our way back to Amman as the heat of the desert would not have made the experience of a two hour jeep ride and walk into the cliffs of the area very pleasant. Without the extra day of walking around Petra we elected to drive out to Little Petra,an outlying village on the route towards Petra itself.

Before we left Joy and I walked down to the corner store to buy a couple of bottles of water. We walked past a couple sitting on their doorstep eating breakfast and drinking tea. Joy greeted them with a breezy “salaam alaykum” and was promptly offered tea and food by the couple. We politely declined the offer as we’d only just eaten at the hotel and headed off to meet our driver, Saber, and take off on our drive to Little Petra.

Elephant Marker indicating routeto Petra from Little Petra

Here we saw the sophistication of the Nabataean engineering in the huge 1.2 million litre cistern cut into a sandstone bluff which acted as one of the catchments for both Little and Big Petra and the surrounding villages when Petra was at the height of its power.

Joy, tempted by the acoustics of the place,sang “Swing Low Sweet Chariot” so she can now claim to have sung in the cistern chapel.

Little Petra or Siq el-Barid was a way station on the trade route which means that the buildings carved from the cliffs could have been inns and shops to supply the traders on their long walk through the sandstone desert towards Petra.

Little Petra, like Petra itself, is built amidst the sandstone rocks with all the holes, indentations and caves that such a landscape creates. We couldn’t help but imagine that the place would sound like a strange and wild orchestra at night with a desert wind blowing and whining over the rocks and through the holes. It would become a place of night djinns and spirits wailing for release from whatever torments they were experiencing. Not the place for a camping trip with the grand-children?

Here the surviving large wall painting from the Nabataean period was undergoing restoration by a couple of archeologist restorers who were perched on scaffolding in a room that could only be reached by climbing a series of sand slippery steps high above the siq floor.

Otherwise the area was deserted to echo to the chirrup of insects and the occasional whirr of a bird flickering through the cliffs.

From there we headed into Wadi Mousa to explore the souvenir shops where Joy bought an arabic style silver mirror decorated with silver chains and charms and I got a Petra tie and a pack of genuine Jordanian coffee to savour with Koro on our return to New Zealand.

I also cleared the e mail to discover that there will be a Cohort VI and the possibility of a new contract in the Gulf was ever nearer.

Tomorrow it is back to Amman with a shopping stop before booking into our hotel for our final night in Jordan.
Sunset over Wadi Mousa