Showing posts with label Oman. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Oman. Show all posts

Friday, March 11, 2011

More on Oman - The Sohar situation

At home things are slowly settling down. The Christchurch earthquake was predicted.

This is more on Sohar from a colleague living there.


'An uneasy calm has descended over the town over the last few days a mood heightened by the leadened skies caused by the unpleasant Shamal that has brought along with cooler weather dust shielding us from the growing strength of the returning sun. The town is calm in a way, because many of the shops are closed, the shopkeepers, according to a Pakistani computer salesman I had taken my printer to for repair, afraid to open in case they suffered the same fate as burnt out Lulu. Many long distance trucks and lorries are becalmed in long lines along the highway or on waste ground, unable to pass the still occupied globe roundabout. Some of the more adventurous of the drivers are taking circuitous routes through the town so one encounters these huge juggernauts along the twisting urban roads causing long traffic jams, resulting in crazed car owners performing idiotic acts like driving along the hardshoulder in the wrong direction to try and avoid the snarl ups, but in so doing causing even greater havoc. The police seem to have disappeared and have been replaced by the army who have set up a roadblock about 50 meters from my flat from where they divert the traffic on to the service roads. From where I live it is virtually impossible, unless one is prepared to drive an extra 20 km in traffic to get to the other side of the highway, but anyway as Lulu has gone and Al Fair has not yet reopened there is no point going over there.
The roundabout is still occupied and many tents are pitched around it, so it is permanently occupied at all times, but whether by the same people or whether they rotate occupancy I do not know. In the evening the crowd swells and last night it appeared that there was a particularly large group who were addressed by a loudspeaker that I could hear clearly in my flat a kilometer away. The roundabout is festooned with banner in English and Arabic proclaiming their loyalty to Sultan Qaboos, though according to Omani friends they still have several demands, such as the dismissal of more ministers and higher wages. From the news this morning I gather that these demands have been largely met by a major cabinet reshuffle. The new ministers are all elected members of the Majil Ashure, the fledgling parliament that is voted on by Omani citizens, both men and women.
The access to the roundabout is still blocked for vehicles and policed by Shibabs (youths), who are polite and show no aggression, but wave you away on to the service road. On the Shinas side of the roundabout near the flat, as I mentioned earlier, there is a military armoured car and several armed soldiers who direct the traffic on to the service road.'

Friday, March 4, 2011

FROM NIZWA TO ABU DHABI

From Nizwa to Abu Dhabi- January - February 2011.

We left Nizwa at the end of January to begin work in Abu Dhabi. A decision we consider was well made after the isolation the contract in Oman created for us.

Here we are in Abu Dhabi, back working for Cognition as an Advisor in an Abu Dhabi school. After the isolation we experienced in Oman, both professionally and managerially, it was a relief to be back among friends as well as being assured that the office would respond to requests promptly and efficiently without having to go through several silos and umpteen request forms to get a response.

The school I’m working in is in central Abu Dhabi, close to where we’re living..... walkable now but perhaps not so easily come summer. The Principal and administration are on the ball and very keen to see the school improve although being transferred from a MoE school to the PPP system two weeks before the end of the first trimester and only getting the advisory team five weeks ago was a considerable jolt for the staff as they had to change their curriculum and delivery models overnight with little time for preparation.

I spent the first three weeks simply reading through the curriculum documents and the assessment models that are required to assess what the teachers were expected to cope with. So how they coped without seeing or reading the material I’m not too sure.

Fortunately I found the curriculum statements familiar as they are modelled on the Queensland & NSW curricula that were developed about the same time as the NZ one was that underpinned the NCEA from 1990-2010. The assessment methodology is very similar to that we’ve been using in NZ and developing in Qatar so, for me, getting on top of the material has been relatively quick. For the teachers, however, it is a different matter.

For some there is a vague understanding coming from their conversations with colleagues in other schools already on the scheme while for others, the majority, there is a sense of confusion and frustration as they have few immediate resources to use to develop units of work from or, for that matter, any idea about assessment methodology apart from short answer tests that give a numerical mark.

The teachers with a vague understanding of the curriculum and assessment processes are confident that they have it together and are absolutely right so I am going to have to start right from the basics and step them through the theory, with some practical exercises to get them aware of the demands, before we can really get into the process of proper unit and lesson planning complete with annual and trimester plans that link into a school syllabus and then back into the curriculum.

Difficult when the expectation is that they should be able to sprint before they pass the toddling stage!!!!

I’m pleased with progress on other fronts at work as we have begun planning to redevelop the school library and to set up an English Club to get the boys involved in improving their skills in English. The response to each of these has been great with buy in from the Administration which will mean we will have support when we need it.

The turmoil in the Arab states, Tunisia, Libya, Morocco, Egypt, Bahrain,Yemen, and now, Oman has not affected us directly in the UAE but has certainly made our decision to quit the contract in Nizwa a wise one as I think the tensions and worries that the isolation of the contract gave would have been exacerbated as time went on.

The news out of Oman has been confined to brief reports on the TV news and paragraphs in the papers. The following, from our friend, Donald, in Sohar, gives an idea of the events across the border.

FROM SOHAR:
All seems quiet now. It is like a Friday, with little traffic, the schools shut, the shops shut, the training center empty of all trainees and the cleaner has disappeared. I sit here in front of my computer wondering what to do. Should I prepare for a possible Intermediate English Language session tomorrow, where I will probably find myself sitting in an empty classroom, or should I take this opportunity to finish cataloguing the books in our library? Or should I for the moment just record my observations and feelings about the events of the last few days?

Last night, against the embassy advice notice, I drove past the Globe Roundabout, the epicentre of the protests in Sohar, to find roadblocks manned by unarmed youths who politely waved me on so I drove past the burnt out remains of Lulu, noticing that all the shops around the blackened hypermarket, seemed to be untouched, though now locked up. From conversations with Omani friends I have been given to understand that Lulu was targeted because it is owned by an unpopular minister. I drove on and passed Sohar palace, surprised to see it appeared to be unguarded at least from an outside view. Whether it has soldiers on guard on the inside I could not see through the partially opened main gate. The absence of guards here I think indicates that opposition is not towards the Sultan himself but rather to ministers and some of the policies.

It is not only around the palace that there are no signs of police or army. I haven't seen a policeman or police-car for two days. The main police station was torched, as was the home of the wali, the governor of the area, and the office of the ministry of manpower. At the present time Sohar appears to be a town without any obvious government control, it is almost as if they had lost interest in what is happening here. In the absence of the authorities it is surprising that there hasn't been more trouble, which shows, I believe, that the looters of Lulu were opportunistic rather than seasoned criminals. However, the boarded up shops,even the little laundry I use, may be an indication that their owners are afraid of more trouble. Some garages are closed and I wouldn't be surprised if we were soon facing a petrol shortage, so no unnecessary driving. I got a full tank the night before last, fearing that we might have problems here. Yesterday morning I also transferred the bulk of my money back to the UK; I hadn't made any transfers for six months because I believed that my money was almost safer here that in an almost bankrupt British bank.

Who knows what today will bring. The British ambassador is supposed to be coming to Sohar this evening and we have been invited to meet him at the Sohar Beach Hotel. I will go along out of interest, apart from anything else it may be an opportunity to meet other expats and here about their experiences. Last night I had a chat with Indian neighbours in my building and we were just saying how quiet it appeared to be then when there was a small burst of firing. Again this morning we had some very short bursts which appeared to come from the area of the Globe. My Omani colleague, who has just arrived in the office, tells me that local people have formed committees of public safety to prevent further looting. She said last night, the looters tried to burn down some schools, but were chased away my members of these local vigilantees, perhaps that was the cause of the firing I heard when chatting to the neighbours. Her opinion is that the looters come from outside Sohar. She believes they have been chased away, but is afraid they may be back. I have also received three Arabic texts which claim that the troubles have been caused by Emirates and according to my colleague they claim some have been captured and confessed. She thinks that this is just another example of people trying to cause more trouble.

The ambassador rode into town last night or rather he hitched a ride in a helicopter with the army general who was coming to command the troops, over 1,500 of them, who are now I believe encamped somewhere between here and Sohar port. The ambassador told us that the army was taking over the powers of the police, who many felt had been discredited over the last few days. A small section of the resident British community turned up to meet his excellency and his vice consul at the Sohar Beach Hotel and hear what the embassy can, can't, will and won't do for us. Much of what he told us we already knew, because of course we have been here at ground zero. One common thread that united all of us, embassy staff and Sohar residents, was surprise that this could happen in Oman and in Sohar in particular. Though there was some apprehension expressed by some residents, all reported that they had not been threatened in any way and that their Omani colleagues and friends had provided help and reassurance where needed. There was some disquiet at the number of rumours flying round and this was heightened by the lack of information from official sources, especially the local TV and radio. Some rumours that were quickly discounted were that the Sohar Crown Plaza was on fire and that the border had been closed. Our lack of Arabic language skills, including my own, was painfully exposed when no one reported being able to read the many Arabic text messages that have been floating round, but some reported that Arabic speaking friends had told them that some were from the authorities and some from people accusing Emiratis of fomenting the trouble. My colleague in the office told me of these and she discounted them saying that it was people trying to create more trouble.

Though people were naturally worried no one said that they had started packing their bags, but one person said that the French, on the advice of their embassy, had already left town, and that the Dutch had been advised to stay indoors. The British issued no such edicts but advised that we should keep a low profile and avoid public areas, though as some residents pointed out that this was hard to do when the Globe roundabout was occupied as this was the main communication highway between the coastal area and the country to the landward side of the highway. The embassy pointed out that in the worst possible scenario, which they were confident would not happen, they had plans to evacuate people and that any British person would be accepted together with spouses, and children of any nationality. Having only a cat to care for I wondered about her, but felt it was probably not wise to bring this up.

On reaching home I sent out a text message to all my Wednesday language course teachers telling them that it was business as usual. This morning 7 out of 18 turned up, all ladies; the three gents were no shows.

While we cope with the political turmoil in the Middle East we are also torn as we listen to the news coming from New Zealand, especially Christchurch, where Jocelyn and Caroline have been coping with the after effects of the two earthquakes that have devastated the city.

Thankfully, Jocelyn & Caroline and all our friends in Christchurch have survived the quakes with little more than broken crockery and windows and repairable damage to their homes which is a personal relief to us. On the other hand the fatalities and the ruin of the CBD with its historic buildings are events that will remain as horrors for a long, long time.

The pictures of the old Christchurch Teachers Colleges, once turned into up-market apartments, reduced to rubble and the destruction of the Cathedral and other iconic buildings are stark reminders of the power the earth can exert on our efforts to show that we have been here.

The text messages from home telling of quakes in Wellington that we’ve received from Rebecca at all hours of the night keep us alert to the ever present knowledge that New Zealand sits along the fault lines of the Pacific rim and that the events of Christchurch could be repeated elsewhere in the country.
It is, however, disappointing to read that the present government is preparing to use the earthquake as an excuse to sell state assets and to slash the social support mechanisms that have been built up over the years. To consider such actions when the country needs the assurance that the support will be there is, to me, unthinkable and unacceptable but, then, when the PM declares that the best other way to raise money to rebuild the economy is to ask Oprah Winfrey & Letterman to run appeals on US TV one is driven to wonder at the quality of leadership New Zealand has elected????

Sunday, December 13, 2009

OMAN & National Day

OMAN.

Driving into Oman was a pleasant change after driving on the flat of Qatar as we wound our was through the mountains down to the coast. Apart from the lack of snow on the mountains we could have been driving down through the Desert Road towards Wellington at the height of summer.

We stopped at Al Khaburah partly because we saw a signpost pointing to a Fort which looked interesting and the prospect of lunch in the township was high on the agenda. The Fort was a 19th century mud-brick one that is, as we came to appreciate, a common feature of Oman overlooking the seafront with line of sight to forts along the coast. I left Joy in the car and walked around the fort to take photographs when I was called over by an Omani family who were standing outside their beachfront home talking. They invited Joy & me to join them for lunch. Apparently this invitation is a basic tenent of Ibadism, the Omani sect of Islam.

I initially deferred but they insisted so I got Joy and returned to meet them. Joy was ushered into the house where she was introduced to the women of the family, including the blind 107 year old Great-great grandmother who, our host’s son said, had told them all about Hitler and W.W.II.

I was entertained in the entrance room until our host returned with a plastic cloth which he laid on the floor along with a coffee pot and cups. Soon after bowls of food arrived - rice, baked goat, foul, onions and fruit and the invitation to eat. Our hosts supplied two plates saying the Joy would be eating with me and, after I was introduced to his wife,mother and the sons, Joy was ushered into the room and encouraged to eat.

Our hosts left us as other family members arrived from Muscat and were to be welcomed in other parts of the household. Joy & I finished eating and took our leave to resume our drive to Muscat another two hours down the road.

Arriving in Muscat we drove past the Grand Mosque the Sultan had built and donated to the people of Oman.The mosque is a huge complex that can host over 20,000 worshippers and which has the largest chandelier in the world - 8 tonnes of crystal and light - we booked into Naseem’s Hotel on the waterfront at Mutrah - the old commercial centre of Muscat. The area was a bustle of activity with the souq, cruise ships and the Al-Lawatiyah mosque all close at hand. The area is picturesque with the Mutrah Fort perched high above the town on a hilltop that jutted into the park below giving a strategic coverage of the port entrance and offering protection to the township.

We prowled the souq that evening looking for bargains and watching the stall holders persuading the passing tourists to buy Omani caps, perfumes, carvings from India, local handicrafts and other nic-nacs in the time-honoured way we have gotten used to here in Doha.

The next day we walked along the corniche watching the locals fishing for the colourful fish that darted amongst the rocks of the area. We gazed up at the fort and the huge incense burner that sits on another headland opposite the fort as we walked to Riyam park. From there we ambled back to the souq,had another pry around the place before driving around the headland to old Muscat where the Sultan has his palace nestled between the two forts - Al Jazirah and AlJalali -that guard the town. We had planned on visiting the museums in the area but found them closed for Eid - inshalla!.

From there we drove along the coast, past small villages huddling in hill sheltered coves, to Al Bustan, a fishing village and the site of the Al Bustan Palace Intercontinental Hotel and the offices of the Governate of Muscat.

That night we were treated to the sight of a woman totally shrouded in her abaya selling products on a TV channel while a gecko crawled its way up the wall of our hotel room.


The next day we drove inland back to UAE. The road twisted through the mountains and desert until we turned off to the old capital of Oman, the silversmithing town of Nizwa. This proved to be a fascinating place with a goat market, silversmithing souq, pottery and handicrafts souq all huddling around the walls of the Nizwa fort and mosque.

We prowled around the stalls for a good two hours and explored the fort which had a very informative museum inside that gave us a great insight into the history of the area and the different industries that had evolved over the centuries in the township.

Leaving the town around 3.00pm we drove on through the wind eroded, twisted rocks of the interior toward the border. As we got higher into the mountains the wind became more obvious and, at times, forcing us to slow to a crawl and, at one point, stop, as the sand swirled up out of the desert and across the road obscuring the road and traffic from sight for minutes at a time.

We crossed the border and headed back to Al Ain for the evening. The next day we dropped in on Bruce and Louise Devene before heading onto Abu Dhabi for the day prior to flying back to Doha the next afternoon.

On arrival in Abu Dhabi we discovered that it was UAE National Day celebrations which meant that the streets were filled with SUVs covered in transfers of the Emirs, red, green and black hearts and slogans declaring the owner’s love and pride of being an Emirati while the skies were filled with a huge flag hauled by a giant helicopter and the corniche was awash with people draped in UAE flags, coloured clothes and caps as they walked to the accompaniment of the sound of numerous SUV horns blurting support for the UAE.


A far far different atmosphere to that which we are used to back home when Waitangi Day becomes a dark and somewhat depressing exercise in protestation rather an a celebration of nationhood and identity.

Back in Doha the State too is gearing up for its celebration of Nationhood on the 18th of December.